South African Airways

The architecture still carries the colonial touch of both German and British rule in St Joseph’s Cathedral, the White Father’s Mission House, the old State House and the Botanical Gardens. The National Museum features exhibits of cultural, ecological and historical significance, and the building itself is a concoction of colourful tiles and intricate carvings. There are plenty of lively neighbourhoods to explore and a harbour where liners berth alongside creaking dhows, fishing boats and high-speed ferries to Zanzibar. Next to the ferry terminal is a colourful and chaotic fish market, filled with lively action as fishermen haul in their catch.

The beaches on Ocean Road are busy on weekends and holidays, but best avoided after dusk because it’s not the safest part of town. The beaches at Bagamoyo, an hour north of the city, are the preferred less-crowded option.

Hop on the ferry to Kigamboni and attractive South Beach. Kigamboni is still part of the capital, but after the brief trip across the harbour mouth you’ll think you’re on a tropical island. The temperature drops a few degrees and the noise of the city centre disappears. Beachfront hotels provide good places to swim, eat and drink.

This is the place for spectacular views of the Indian Ocean. On its western side are booths and traders offering all kinds of water sports. Msasani Peninsula lies across Solander Bridge and harbours all the affluent hotels and homes in the suburb of Oyster Bay, so it’s the best place to base yourself.

The city comes alive at night and dressing to impress is de rigueur. Dining, dancing and music flare up at open-air venues playing lively East African beats and vie for attention against clubs with DJs spinning the discs. Some bars and clubs offer monthly jols where a short boatride takes you to a small island to dance till dawn. Every February there’s a music festival with local and international jazz artists playing at venues across the city.

This open-air village museum in well-kept grounds features 18 traditional houses from Tanzania’s different ethnic groups. There are traditional dance performances, craftsmen at work and agricultural demonstrations and a cafe. Makumbusho, the Swahili word for museum, is on New Bagamoyo Road.

Mwenge crafts market on Sam Nujoma Road specialises in intricate wooden carvings and haggling is the common currency. You can also watch the carvers at work so you know exactly who created your souvenir.

Snorkelers and divers head to Bongoyo Island Marine Reserve for beautiful beaches and secluded islands. The uninhabited isle makes a great day trip via a 30-minute boatride from The Slipway. Dense forest lies behind the beaches, but there are few walking trails and the going is rough. If you want to play explorer, you can seek out the ruins of a German colonial building in the centre.

This laid-back, tourist-friendly shopping centre has grown up around a boatyard that still retains its original purpose, so you can book diving expeditions, organise sailing lessons or take a boat trip to Bongoyo and Mbudia islands. It’s a great place for drinks as the sun slips away into the harbour. A craft bazaar sets up in its plaza every weekend.

Dar es Salaam’s most popular seafront restaurant serves up lovely sunsets over the Indian Ocean. On the menu are seafood, grills and pizza from the wood-fired oven, and the bar is frequented by locals who are happy to share insiders tips with tourists. The Waterfront is at The Slipway. Tel: +255 2226 00893.

Nothing eases the stress of the traffic better than a refreshing Serengeti beer at Samaki Samaki. Collapse into a couch in the open-air lounge or opt for the coolness of an air-conditioned room. This bar and café often has live music and has branched out to sell carvings, paintings and interior design accessories. Bagamoyo Road. Tel: +255 7588 12224.

The Oyster Bay can send a chauffeur to help speed you through the airport and take you to its tranquil gardens where eight luxurious suites all face the ocean. It’s within easy walking distance of the Oyster Bay shopping centre. Tel: +44 193 226 0618.

For an unbeatable lazy lunch at the edge of the Indian Ocean, try Mediterraneo restaurant in the hotel of the same name. There are candlelit gardens on the other side of you, and waiters languidly offering Italian and Mediterranean dishes. It’s a favourite spot for affluent locals as well as tourists.

Kariakoo Market sprawls across several noisy, congested streets with traders selling everything from bootlegged CDs to tanzanite jewellery, beautiful hand-crafted souvenirs, gaudy clothing and fabrics. It’s reputedly the largest covered market in Africa. It’s also a favourite spot for pickpockets, so keep your wits, your bag and your wallet about you.

It’s possible, but not advisable, to visit Zanzibar in a day. It’s well worth spending a couple of days there. You can catch a 25-minute flight or the cheaper two-hour ferry to visit the crumbling ruins of Stone Town, which is a World Heritage site and see the house where Queen’s Freddie Mercury grew up.